VIT C intre eficienţa si marketing

Probabil stiţi deja ca produsele cosmetice pe baza de Vit C sunt cotate ca uimitoare tratamente anti-age. Isi merita aceste produse renumele?

Situaţia e un pic mai complicata.

Pe de o parte, vitamina C poseda, validat stiinţific, merite clare pentru reducerea ridurilor si intinerirea pielii, iar pe de alta parte Vit C din multe produse NU functioneaza.

Dar mai intai sa intelegem pe scurt cum determina vit. C efectul anti age:

In primul rand, Vit C este esentiala in sinteza colagenului – proteina cheie structurala a pielii, care ajuta la cresterea celulelor si a vaselor de sange si confera pielii fermitate. In conditii de laborator, adaugarea de vitamina C la o cultura de celule ale pielii, fibroblaste, creste semnificativ sinteza de colagen.

In al doilea rand, vit C este un puternic antioxidant, reducand daunele provocate de factorii de mediu la nivelul pielii.

In al treilea rand, vit C contribuie la crearea tesutului cicatricial si al ligamentelor, fiind un factor regenerant cheie (logic, atata timp cat determina sinteza colagenului).

Si nu in ultimul rand este demn de remarcat efectul de uniformizare pigmentara, fiind adesea folosit in produsele de iluminare (depigmentare) pe termen lung.

Asadar, atunci cand vitamina C este CORECT furnizata celulelor pielii, exista mari sanse de a reduce vizibil ridurile si a imbunatati textura pielii.

Exista un “totusi”, mai exact situatii discutabile privind eficienta ei, cu atat mai mult cu cat unii producatori ignora regulile de baza, din motive pur comerciale.

In primul rand vit C este relativ instabila (singura exceptie facand-o forma ei uscata – neprelucrata). In momentul prelucrarii se intervine implicit asupra starii ei de agregare, iar prezenta aerului si altor agenti de oxidare o convertesc imediat la forme oxidate.

Vit C oxidata nu numai ca devine incapabila de a stimula sinteza de colagen sau neutraliza radicalii liberi. Mai rau, ea insasi promoveaza formarea radicalilor liberi care aduc daune majore moleculelor vitale, cum ar fi proteinele si ADN-ul.

In produsele slab pregatite sau prost depozitate, vitamina C poate fi deja oxidata!

Mai mult, doar preparatele concentrate (peste 10-15% ) pot livra celulelor suficienta vitamina C pentru eficienta locala. O alta conditie este ca acestea sa lucreze in mediu acid (deci un PH scazut).

Multe companii ofera produse extrem de concentrate cu vitamina C stabilizata, care (cel putin teoretic) ar trebui sa fie conservate eficient. Astfel de produse ajung sa fie extrem de scumpe. Mai mult, chiar stabilizata, vitamina C devine oxidabila in timp, pe masura ce produsul este deschis… deci pe masura utilizarii.

Asadar, cand alegeti un produs pe baza de vit c este important sa va orientati pe marci de incredere (din punctul meu de vedere si la marile branduri e curata loterie) si sa fiti atenti la data de expirare si depozitare. Mai mult, asigurati-va ca procentul de vit C trece de 15 %.

Sfatul meu, ca si solutie de compromis, valabila pentru persoanele care investesc ceva mai mult timp pentru ingrijire:

Preparati-va singure, PENTRU O SINGURA UTILIZARE, un ser de vit C (glicerina + vit C 20%).  Astfel va asigurati garantat prospetimea si potenta, ca sa nu mai vorbim de economii substantiale de cost.

Pe ProEstetic Magazin gasiti Vitamina C uz cosmetic pulbere (100 gr- 20 lei),  cat si o masca cu un procent forte de vit.C (20%) potentat de acidul tartric din compozitie si mai ales de pulberea de goji, catina si citrice.

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