ACVAPORINELE

acvaporineAcvaporinele sunt proteine care formeaza canale foarte mici prin care doar moleculele de apa pot trece, fara a antrena si alte molecule celulare.

Exista cel putin 200 de acvaporine descoperite. Ele se intalnesc atat in celulele umane  (in numar de 12; descoperire premiata cu Nobel pentru Chimie) cat si in regnul vegetal sau animal.

In piele acvaporinele se gasesc in cantitati mari in straturile profunde ale epidermei, fiind in numar din ce in ce mai mic spre straturile superioare. Localizate la nivelul membranelor celulare, ele sunt considerate adevarate „ canale de apa”. Rolul lor este de a regla echilibrul hidric al apei, asigurand transportul acesteia din straturile profunde spre cele superioare.

Ajunsa la stratul cornos, apa este preluata de alte structuri specifice :

  • factorul natural de hidratare
  • ceramidele
  • filmul hidrolipidic

Incepand cu varsta de 30 ani ( estimativa) toate structurile epidermice, inclusiv acvaporinele suporta o scadere brusca cu repercursiuni importante asupra nivelului de hidratare cutanata, si implicit asupra aspectului pielii. Circulatia hidrica este perturbata cu o diminuare vizibila a cantitatii de apa trasportata prin straturile epidermei. Consecinta inseamna ten deshidratat.

FACTORUL NATURAL DE HIDRATARE

Factorii naturali de hidratare sunt agenti sintetizati in mod natural de piele pentru a capta apa in epiderma.

Printre acesti compusi amintesc cele mai importante elemente:

  • acizi aminati liberi
  • acidul carboxilic
  • uree
  • acid lactic
  • zaharuri
  • oligoelemente
  • clorura

 Dintre aceste elemente, anume acidul carboxilic, ureea si acidul lactic poseda o capacitate hidratanta puternica, prin actiunea lor higroscopica, putand retine pana la 70% greutatea lor in apa.

FILMUL HIDROLIPIDIC

Filmul hidrolipidic este ca o emulsie naturala formata din apa si lipide care acopera suprafata pielii.

Partea apoasa provine din consistenta hidrica a pielii ( 40% ), iar partea lipidica din sebum (60%). Indispensabil pentru supletea pielii, principala functie a filmului hidrolipidic este de a retine apa la suprafata si de a impiedica astfel deshidratarea.

    Toti acesti compusi actioneaza in procesul de hidratare natural al pielii, care incetineste odata cu varsta, fiind in cantitate si calitate insuficienta. Asfel pielea nu mai este in masura sa „lucreze” la nivel optim, de aceea trebuie „ajutata”.

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